CWONDO: IN OSAKA WITH THE FRENETIC GLUM-POP GURU

Words and Photos by Andy Armstrong

May 2024

Inward and private, Cwondo feels withdrawn into his own little universe.

Yet, his hyperpop world is strangely magnetic, pulling you into its swirl of playfully glum masterpieces.

Last spring at Osaka’s indie sanctuary, Socore Factory, the Tokyo-based songwriter/producer/track maker treated the audience to a beautifully frenetic and emotionally dynamic set.

A startling but endearing shock to the system.

Cwondo’s a hustler.

Any night of the week you can find him crawling around the city, laying down his offerings to the electronic gods.

But this weekend, he left the capital behind and set out on a mini-tour, first stopping in Nagoya, and then Osaka, one of East Asia’s music epicenters.

To document his visit, we met up after soundcheck and circled the neighborhood to capture a set of heartfelt black-and-white film portraits.

With limited time and little control over the location, shoots like this can be daunting.

But also extremely freeing.

You’re forced into working with what you have, relying on senses and intuition.

A cheat code into the flow state.

Following instinct, we found an open entrance and popped up to the top floor of a high-rise apartment building to borrow the view.

It turned out to be a goldmine.

After making the most of the city skyline, we meandered to Amidaike Koen, a classic Japanese park just a block from the venue.

During our venture, I discovered that Cwondo operates out of his humble home studio, where he handles all aspects of song production, including engineering, tracking, and programming, entirely on his own.

It’s astounding, considering the scope of sounds, elements, textures, and emotionality featured in his tracks.

Before long, we had a couple of rolls of film in the can and parted ways to get prepped for showtime.

Like some of my other favorite Japanese artists, specifically Pikomaruko and Sakusen 53, the stage is a catalyst for Cwondo. A temple gate spurring a transformation into extraordinary new versions of himself.

Cwondo’s live performances are dizzying. Shifting from frantic to subdued at a moment’s notice, completely in sync with the music’s energy.

With a superb catalog of releases that includes full-length albums, EP’s, singles, covers, demos, remixes, and live sessions, Cwondo recently added another one to the list:

Cwondo Memo 2020-2024.

A new album of 21 whimsical demo tracks ranging from gently-textured soundscapes to twitchy anthems.

A leftfield ballet, pirouetting through fantastical and wistful collages of synths, guitars, and drum machines.

At the forefront of Japan’s flourishing indie-electronic wave, Cwondo is a gift to the country’s music culture.

Prolific and committed, he transcends.

To dive into Cwondo’s work, here are a few good places to start:

1. “Twwen” from Hernia

2. “Sarasara” from Coloriyo

3. “Kurukuru” from Cwondo Memo 2020-2024

Get ready for a startling, but endearing shock to the system.

-Andy / We Speak in Colors

A MORNING IN HASEDERA, 3-PART PHOTO SERIES RECAP

A collection of highlights from the journey to the iconic temple grounds

Over the past couple weeks, I published a 3-Part photo-series called A Morning in Hasedera.

The images document my mini-pilgrimage to Hasedera Temple in Nara Prefecture, Japan earlier this spring.

To wrap up the series, I conveniently compiled the highlights of each part.

Recap below:

A couple train transfers and an hour and a half southeast of Osaka City, the iconic temple sits on a beautiful mountainside.

Although there’s a sturdy infrastructure of signs and shops catered to visitors making their way to the sacred grounds, you’ll miss the crowds if you set out early enough.

Left: After entering, you can choose between a slew of maze-like pathways. These trails twist and turn, winding you through numerous mountainside shrines and temples, including Hasedera Gojunoto.

Right: Along the journey, you’ll also come across a plethora of sanctified objects, like this statue standing tall in the sunbeams.

Mountain and village view from a tastefully-nestled wooden lookout. 

There’s no shortage of spots like this to catch a beautiful panorama. 

See Part 1 in full here.


Part 1 took us through the temple grounds. 

In Part 2, we’ll see some treasures of the surrounding town.

Left: An undisturbed, small-town road not far from the Hasedera Temple compound. 

Right: A classic shrine gate (torii) adorned with a simple but beautiful decoration and flower arrangement. These gates symbolize the transition into a new realm, from the everyday into the fantastical. 

Left: Just outside the grounds, looking over a village tucked in the valley below.

Right: The Yamato River gently splashing between small-town homes. 

Full Part 2 blog here.


Parts 1 and 2 took us on a quest through the temple compound and surrounding town, but now it’s time to head back to Osaka City. 

Through the train window, Part 3 reveals the landscape’s slow transformation from rural to metropolitan.

Left: On the first leg of the journey, cruising down the tracks through open fields and small towns.

Right: Inching towards the city. Buildings growing taller, open space dwindling. 

Back in the city limits; countryside long forgotten in the sprawling rooftops and heightened energy.

See full Part 3 set here.


Through the temple grounds (Part 1), around the town (Part 2), and back on the train (Part 3). 

A journey to the countryside through the 3-part photo-series, A Morning in Hasedera.

Thanks for joining me on the adventure.

If you like the vibe of this series, there’s a nice set of ready-to-print digital photos in my online shop. A handy pit stop for a birthday or upcoming holiday- can’t go wrong with a unique, heartfelt photo.

Thanks a lot for reading,

-Andy / We Speak in Colors


P.S. I send out a monthly email with pieces just like this. Sign up below to join the crew getting a regular dose of art, culture, and inspiration sent to their inbox every month.

Andrew Armstrong
PART 3 OF A MORNING IN HASEDERA

An early Spring journey to one of Japan’s most sacred temples

Parts 1 and 2 of A Morning in Hasedera took us on a quest through the tranquil pathways of Hasedera Temple and the peaceful surrounding town.

We discovered some of the sweet treasures the Japanese countryside offers, but now, in Part 3, it’s time to hop on the train and head back to Osaka City.


On the first leg of the journey, cruising down the tracks through open fields and small towns.

Inching towards the city. Buildings growing taller, open space dwindling. 

Back in the city limits; countryside long forgotten in the sprawling rooftops and heightened energy.


Through the temple grounds, around the town, and back on the train. 

A journey to the countryside. 

A tranquil 3-part photo-series: A Morning in Hasedera.

Thanks for joining me on the adventure to rural Japan. 

-Andy Armstrong / We Speak in Colors

P.S. I send out a monthly email with stuff just like this. Sign up below for a regular dose of art, culture, and inspiration.

Additionally, there’s a nice set of ready-to-print digital photos from the series up on my Etsy shop

Andrew Armstrong
A MORNING IN HASEDERA PHOTO SERIES- PART 2

Treasures from the surrounding small town

A Morning in Hasedera is a 3-part photo series highlighting my early spring pilgrimage from Osaka City to Hasedera Temple in Nara Prefecture.

Part 1 of the series saw me making my way from the station to the temple gates and winding along the sacred grounds’ pathways.

This second chapter features 6 images highlighting treasures of the quiet mountainside town surrounding the temple.

An undisturbed, small town road not far from the Hasedera Temple compound. 

A mountainside home perched along steps leading up to a neighboring shrine. 

A classic shrine gate (torii) adorned with a simple but beautiful decoration and flower arrangement. These gates symbolize the transition into a new realm, from the everyday into the fantastical. 

Just outside the grounds, looking over a village nestled in the valley below.

The Yamato River gently splashes between small town homes. 

Layers of: empty lot, houses, mountain, sky.


Part 1 took us through the temple grounds. Part 2, around the town.

In Part 3, it’s time to begin the journey back to Osaka and witness the slow shift from rural to metropolitan.

If you enjoyed the vibe of these photos and blog, I’ve got two recommendations:

1. Sign up below to join the crew getting the once-a-month email I send out. I keep it concise and interesting.

2. Hit my Etsy Shop for a nice set of ready-to-print digital photos from this series. It’s a handy pit stop if there’s a special birthday or holiday coming up- can’t go wrong with a unique, heartfelt photo.

Thanks a lot for reading and talk soon, 

-Andy Armstrong / We Speak in Colors

Andrew Armstrong
A MORNING IN HASEDERA PHOTO-SERIES: PART 1 OF 3

A collection of highlights from MY journey to the iconic temple grounds

With spring freshly arrived, I set out to rural Nara to document one of the area’s most sacred treasures: Hasdera Temple.
Experience these mystical Japanese grounds through A Morning in Hasedera, a tranquil 3-part photo series.


Two train transfers and an hour and a half later, I arrived at Hasedera station.  

Another 15-minute walk brought me to this charming little bridge that connects right to the main strip of town.

Although it’s dotted with shops capitalizing on foot traffic to the temple gates, you’ll be greeted by desolate streets if you get there early enough.


After entering, you can choose between a slew of maze-like pathways. These trails twist and turn, leading you through numerous mountainside shrines and temples, including Hasedera Gojunoto.


No shortage of spots to take in the view along the meandering expedition.


A clan of mini-statues lined along one of the many trails winding through Hasedera Temple.


Mountain and village view from a tastefully-nestled wooden lookout.


Standing tall in the sunbeams: a statue holding a baby statue.


There you have it, Part 1 of A Morning in Hasedera. 6 photos guiding you through an ancient temple brimming with powerful energy.

The adventure continues next week in Parts 2 and 3.

These final two chapters, featuring more of the town surrounding the temple and the train journey back to Osaka city, will be published Sunday, April 28.

If you enjoyed this and would like to get these kinds of pieces sent right to your email, sign up below for some monthly inspiration.

Thanks for reading and talk soon, 

-Andy

Andrew Armstrong
PHOTO JOURNAL / FIRST QUARTER 2024 RECAP

The first few months of the year ripped by, and with the cherry blossoms peaked and on their way out, it’s time to reflect and archive.

Here are 12 photos to walk you through the first part of my year:

After a few years in a row of being gone for the holidays, I went back to Pennsylvania to be with family for Christmas. I was in Somerset most of the trip, but spent New Year’s Eve in Pittsburgh with some good friends. The next day, I bounced around the city to try and bottle up the magic of a quiet, snowy January 1st.


After returning back to Japan a few days into the new year, I ventured around on my bike to document these pieces called shimekazari that people hang on their homes and businesses for good luck. I’m instinctively drawn to shooting things like this that give a place its identity.


Inspired by the season, I designed up a little astrology print for my fellow Aquarians. The photo featured is from an evening jaunt pretty early in my time here in Osaka. I was, and still am, enamored with the constant treasures that the city offers.


In town from Chicago, I couldn’t miss Ratboys and their wonderful hook-filled, folk-infused indie-rock songs.


It’s my first time living somewhere with a train system, and a robust one at that. I know it won’t last forever, so I’m mindful of the blessing it is. On the elevated lines, looking out at the world, it always feels like being in a movie.


I got to see Pikomaruko, one of my favorite Osaka artists, perform again at a legendary local venue called Namba Bears. She crushed the packed room with her one-of-a-kind freakout music.


I spend huge chunks of time walking and riding my bike- an all-at-once gateway for exploring, connecting with my body, getting ideas, working through decisions, and blowing off steam. Additionally it’s a vital part of my creative process when working on songs. This track is an example of something that was pieced together this way. Write, move body, edit, move, and repeat.

This is one of the many bridges I often pass over when venturing around the city.


Kissatens, or old-school coffee houses, are portals into past decades. These wistful spaces can serve many purposes. A place to organize your thoughts. To rest. To send some overdue messages. Work out song lyrics. Or simply just somewhere to exist outside of your apartment.


The Pollux Theatre, a music venue in the iconic Nipponbashi neighborhood, is a gem of Osaka. The live house is dedicated exclusively to kawaii anime-pop artists, a truly bizarre and fascinating genre/subculture of Japan.


One of the best things about living in Japan is the access to sentos. Nothing revives your mind, body, and spirit like an hour bouncing between the sauna and cold and hot baths. Here is some golden hour light shining into the locker room.


I came across this amazing waterside shrine on the way back home after a Sunday morning venture down to Nagai Park. Always mystical energy awaiting inside the (torii) gates.


I wanted to welcome spring with a little venture out to the countryside. So, after taking a buddy’s recommendation, I decided on Hasedera, a spectacular cluster of shrines and temples tucked in a rural Nara mountainside.


There it is.

2024 first quarter in the books.

-Andy

PS. Throw your email in below to get things like this sent directly to your inbox once a month.

Andrew Armstrong
HOLIDAY PHOTO SETS UP ON ETSY

Two beautiful photo sets available now til December 31, 2023 on Etsy.

“Merry Christmas from Japan” and “Happy New Year”

The holidays in Japan can be magical.

Many people struggle to get into the spirit here during the holiday season, but luckily my experience has been different.

See, at home in Western Pennsylvania, Christmas, family, and church are intertwined. While I can’t speak for everyone, this isn’t uncommon. 

For many, the season requires some kind of church service and lots bouncing around the family tree.

Cousins from one side, and aunts and uncles from another. And of course, parents and grandparents, and siblings, nieces, and nephews.

Action-packed.

Although each year injects me with more appreciation for family, it feels like the world gives out a collective sigh when things quiet down.


Til it’s time for New Year’s mode.

When if you’re not careful, that ever-ready panic is there to deceitfully pull you into its glow. The shimmer that will leave you standing in a room you don’t want to be in as the clock hits midnight.

But fly across the world and things are flipped.

Christmas in Japan is more of a celebration of friends and romance, with a casually joyful energy that fills cities with end-of-year parties, trees covered with lights, and non-stop events.

Then on December 26th, it’s like Christmas never happened. The lights, decorations, and discount signs are taken down, as things begin to shift towards the pensive.

Of course debauchery continues, but there’s a noticeable change in the air as people begin looking ahead to their New Year’s plans.

Plans that most likely involve traveling to spend a chunk of days with family. This will also be the time that people begin visiting temples and shrines to give gratitude for the year passed and get their fortune (omikuji) for the year ahead.


This change is quite refreshing.

Though I embrace the spiritual side of the season, especially the Christmas Eve candle light service- a beautiful thing to experience- there’s something fun about being a little blissful during Christmas.

And then, less than a week later, avoiding the anxiety of New Year’s by spending it calmly and reflectively. Maybe with a nice long walk or bike ride around midnight and/or in the morning around sunrise.

I’m ready to experience holidays consistently in America again, but I will always cherish the ones I’ve had in Japan.

And I’m thankful to have rolls of film that document them.

The photos featured in these two sets are images from Osaka, Tokyo, Kanazawa, and Yamanaka Onsen over my last two winters in Japan.

They were all shot on 35mm film and developed at local film labs in Osaka city. 

I hope you can feel the spirit of the holidays in Japan through them.

Both are up on Etsy til December 31, 2023.

Andrew Armstrong
SAKUSEN 53 PHOTO SHOOT ON OSAKA ROOFTOP

Rainy season skies in Osaka are perfect for shooting on film. Luckily got to take advantage and collaborate recently with Sakusen 53, an incredible Osaka artist and producer, and get some rooftop photos. They turned out sick. Listen to her music here.

Andrew Armstrong
SPRING 2023 SHOWS

Two shows in two legendary Japan clubs coming up.

3/28 at Namba Bears in Osaka (open 7 / set time 9)

3/30 at UFO Club in Tokyo (open 7 / set time 9:30)

Andrew Armstrong
CLUB DAPHNIA PERFORMANCE PHOTOS

some sweet photos from my recent performance at Club Daphnia in Osaka. I’ve been attending events at Daphnia since moving to Japan, so was really cool to get to play there. Great space, great sound.

Andrew Armstrong